Colombia Washed San Bernardo

San Bernardo – a dwarf mutation of heirloom Typica discovered in Guatemala in 1949 – is cultivated by only a handful of farms globally due to extreme susceptibility to coffee leaf rust and low yields. Yet those who dare to grow it are rewarded with exceptional cup quality: floral complexity, high clarity, and the prized flavor characteristics inherited from its Typica lineage.

Origin: El Libano, Gaitania, Tolima, Colombia
Producer: Javier Rubio (Cup of Excellence 2008, 3rd place)
Altitude: 1,600-1,750 meters above sea level
Variety: San Bernardo (dwarf Typica mutation)
Process: Modern Washed (extended underwater fermentation)
Roast Profile: Light-Medium
Tasting Notes: Red apple, Sugar cane, Umami, intense florals

The Producer: Javier Rubio's Quality-First Philosophy

Javier Rubio was born into a multi-generational coffee farming family in Casanare, working on family farms from childhood. After moving to Tolima in 1990, he purchased El Libano farm around 1994 in the remote mountain valley of Gaitania, near the border with Huila. His 7-hectare farm operates at elevations between 1,600-1,750 meters on nutrient-rich volcanic ash soils, where he works alongside his son, daughter-in-law, and brother Hector.

His breakthrough came at the 2008 Cup of Excellence Colombia South competition, where he secured 3rd place with 91.05 points among 532 producers from 10 states. The winning lot of 19 bags sold for $9.35 per pound to Japanese trading company Marubeni Corporation. Rather than resting on this achievement, Rubio describes himself as "still not satisfied" – a drive that led him to pursue exotic varietals and innovative processing methods.

In 2018, Rubio planted exotic varieties including Geisha, Tabi, San Bernardo, and Yellow Bourbon alongside his traditional Caturra and Castillo. The San Bernardo particularly appealed to him: despite taking longer to mature and being highly sensitive to leaf rust, it produces exceptional cup quality with distinctively floral and complex profiles. This willingness to embrace agronomic challenges in pursuit of quality exemplifies the specialty coffee ethos of prioritizing cup excellence over commercial convenience.

Rubio holds organic certification and cultivates 15 different types of native trees alongside coffee, actively preserving animal habitats in the region. He's a member of the Tres Rayas Coffee Cooperative and works with Cofinet, the Colombian producer-exporter that trained him in advanced processing techniques.

The Variety: San Bernardo's Rare Heritage

San Bernardo represents one of specialty coffee's most compelling paradoxes: agronomically challenging yet producing exceptional quality that commands premium prices. Also known as "Pache" in its native Guatemala, this varietal was first discovered in 1949 at Finca El Brito in Santa Cruz Naranjo, Guatemala, as a natural mutation of Typica caused by a genetic mutation that produces dwarfism.

The plants grow to just 0.8-1.25 meters – even shorter than Caturra or Castillo – while maintaining large cherries and beans characteristic of Typica. This compact stature allows denser planting, yet the varietal produces significantly lower yields than commercial Colombian varieties. World Coffee Research classifies it in the Bourbon-Typica group and documents it as having "very good to exceptional" cup quality potential at higher altitudes.

Only a handful of farms globally cultivate San Bernardo, primarily in Colombia's Huila and Tolima departments, with limited presence in Guatemala, Mexico, and Peru. In Colombia, notable producers include Oliver Cortez at El Triunfo farm, Adaiber Peña, and Luis Aldana alongside Rubio. The varietal remains rare because it is highly susceptible to coffee leaf rust and Coffee Berry Disease – critical weaknesses after the 2008-2013 rust epidemic devastated Latin American production.

Cup quality justifies the challenges. San Bernardo consistently scores 85.5-87.5 points in specialty evaluations, with exceptional lots like Rubio's achieving 91+ points. The flavor profile showcases characteristics inherited from Typica: chocolate, citrus (orange, lemon), stone fruits (prune, peach), honey, sugarcane, cinnamon, and vanilla, with smooth, syrupy body, vibrant acidity, high clarity, and long finish.

Why Frank's Coffee Chose This Coffee

We were immediately drawn to the story behind San Bernardo – a producer choosing quality over convenience, cultivating a variety that most farmers avoid. Javier Rubio's Cup of Excellence recognition validates what we value most: the conviction that exceptional quality ultimately finds its market when producers commit to excellence at every stage from seed selection through processing.

The rarity factor resonated deeply with us. With only a handful of farms globally growing San Bernardo commercially, each harvest represents a genuinely unique opportunity. This isn't manufactured scarcity – it's the natural result of a variety that requires significant expertise, perfect growing conditions, and willingness to accept lower yields in exchange for extraordinary cup quality.

Rubio's location in Gaitania adds meaningful context. The region was occupied by FARC until approximately 2010-2015, with no coffee produced for global consumption during those years. Coffee became a symbol of transformation as the region transitioned from conflict zone to specialty production hub. The indigenous Nasa We'sx community maintains deep connections to the land, combining generational cultivation knowledge with modern quality focus. Supporting this coffee means supporting peace through agricultural development.

From a technical perspective, the Modern Washed processing method that Rubio employs – with 30-40 hours of underwater fermentation before pulping – creates more aromatic results with cleaner, more distinct cup profiles than traditional Colombian washed processing. This approach amplifies San Bernardo's inherent floral characteristics while maintaining the bright acidity Colombian coffees are famous for.

At Frank's Coffee, we're always seeking coffees that tell compelling stories while delivering championship-caliber quality. This San Bernardo checks every box: Cup of Excellence pedigree, ultra-rare varietal, innovative processing, organic certification, biodiversity-focused farming, and a producer philosophy that aligns perfectly with our values of excellence and innovation.

Modern Washed Processing

Rubio employs Cofinet's "Modern Washed" protocol, an innovation that fundamentally differs from traditional Colombian washed processing through a critical methodological shift: 30-40 hours of underwater fermentation occurs before pulping rather than after.

Traditional Colombian washed processing pulps cherries within 24 hours of harvest, then ferments the mucilage-covered parchment for 12-36 hours before washing and drying. Cofinet's approach instead submerges whole cherries underwater for 30-40 hours, keeping them in a stable environment less susceptible to temperature fluctuations. This extended whole-cherry fermentation promotes gentle microbial activity, allowing volatile aromatic compounds created during fermentation to be absorbed by the seeds while they remain protected by fruit and mucilage.

After fermentation completes, cherries are pulped to remove outer skin and fruit, then gently washed to rinse excess mucilage. The parchment dries in temperature-controlled conditions until reaching ideal moisture around 10-12%.

This sequence produces more aromatic results with cleaner, more distinct cup profiles compared to traditional washed processing, revealing additional dimensions while maintaining the bright acidity and clarity Colombian washed coffees are famous for. For this specific San Bernardo lot, the Modern Washed protocol amplifies the varietal's inherent characteristics – roasters describe the cup as showcasing sugar cane, lemon, black tea, and intense florals with high flavor clarity.

Frank's Approach: Championship-Level Roasting

As the roaster behind New Zealand's 2023 Barista Champion and 4th place finish at the 2024 World Barista Championship, we understand what exceptional coffee requires. Our infrared roasting technology was specifically chosen to highlight sweetness and clarity – critical for showcasing San Bernardo's delicate floral notes and Typica-inherited characteristics.

Tasting Notes & What to Expect

Expect bright sugar cane sweetness balanced by crisp lemon acidity, with black tea elegance and intense floral aromatics throughout. The washed processing creates crystal-clear flavor expression – you're tasting the intrinsic characteristics of San Bernardo varietal and El Libano's volcanic terroir rather than processing-derived flavors.

The cup showcases everything Typica genetics are celebrated for: chocolate depth provides foundational richness, citrus brightness (lemon, orange) adds vibrancy, stone fruit complexity (peach, prune) creates mid-palate interest, and honey sweetness ties everything together with a smooth, syrupy body and long, clean finish.

Brewing Guidance

For Pour-Over (V60 or Kalita Wave):

• Coffee: 20g
• Water: 330g (1:16.5 ratio)
• Temperature: 92-94°C
• Grind: Medium (similar to washed coffees)
• Brew Time: 2:30-3:00 total
• Bloom: 30-40 seconds using 40-50g water

Pour with controlled, circular motions to ensure even extraction. Washed processing creates more forgiving extraction compared to naturals – the clarity and brightness shine through various brew methods. V60 emphasizes brightness and floral notes, while Kalita Wave creates more balanced sweetness with increased body.

For Espresso:

• Dose: 18-20g
• Yield: 40-50g (1:2-1:2.5 ratio)
• Time: 25-30 seconds
• Temperature: 93-95°C

San Bernardo works beautifully as espresso with slightly longer ratios (1:2.5) that showcase the sugar cane sweetness and floral complexity without over-concentrating the acidity. The syrupy body characteristic of Typica genetics creates satisfying texture in milk drinks while maintaining flavor clarity.

Peak Freshness & Storage

Peak freshness for washed coffees occurs 7-14 days after roasting. The clean processing means flavors integrate more quickly than natural processed coffees, with optimal expression window opening sooner.

Store whole beans in airtight, opaque containers at cool room temperature (20-25°C) in dark cupboards away from heat sources. Never refrigerate. Grind only immediately before brewing – ground coffee loses freshness within hours due to massive surface area oxidation.

For long-term storage: Freeze coffee at peak flavor (7-14 days post-roast for washed) in small portions representing 3-6 days of consumption. Vacuum-seal individual portions or use zipper bags with air pressed out. Let beans reach room temperature in sealed containers before opening to prevent condensation. Properly frozen coffee can maintain quality for several months.

Tolima's Volcanic Terroir & Emerging Specialty Region

Gaitania occupies a remote mountain valley in southern Tolima's Planadas municipality, positioned where the region borders Huila to the south and Cauca to the west. The area is dominated by Nevado del Huila, Colombia's fourth tallest mountain, whose volcanic presence fundamentally shapes the terroir.

The volcanic soils are exceptionally nutrient-rich – high in potassium, nitrogen, and boron critical for plant health and fruit production. These soils absorb and hold moisture while facilitating excellent drainage on mountainous slopes, providing the ideal conditions coffee roots prefer. At 1,600-1,750 meters elevation with significant day-night temperature variations, cherry maturation slows, developing concentrated sugars and complex flavors.

Gaitania's coffee history is inseparable from Colombia's recent peace process. The region was occupied by FARC until approximately 2010-2015, with no coffee produced for global consumption during those years. The indigenous Nasa We'sx community was the first in Colombia to sign a peace agreement with FARC on July 26, 1996. Coffee became a symbol of transformation as the region transitioned from conflict zone to specialty production hub.

An unintended benefit: much of Gaitania's land remained virtually untouched and free of agrochemicals for decades, making organic certification straightforward for producers like Rubio who developed organic methods out of necessity.

This San Bernardo from Javier Rubio's El Libano farm represents coffee's "quality at any cost" philosophy – a producer choosing to cultivate a challenging, low-yielding variety because the cup quality justifies every risk. For specialty coffee customers seeking genuine rarity backed by Cup of Excellence credentials, supporting post-conflict agricultural development, and experiencing Typica genetics at their finest, this delivers an exceptional coffee that tells a meaningful story with every cup.